A crochet heart bell pairs a plain ivory bell shape with a red heart applique and a straight green rim. A red chain loop finishes the top, with an optional green bead resting above the crown. The heart gives the front a clear focal point without adding a decorative band around the middle.
This original version uses half double crochet for the hollow body, then switches to single crochet for two green edging rounds. The heart is made separately in a magic ring and sewn flat against the front. There is no stuffing or scalloped edge.
Make the body first and check its shape with your chosen yarn before adding the applique. For a different construction with a contrasting band and scallops, see the Christmas bell ornament. This version has its own stitch sequence and a simpler lower outline.
About this crochet heart bell pattern
The instructions are an original interpretation inspired by the supplied reference, not the exact recipe behind its photograph. The stitch arithmetic has been checked, but the design has not been physically tested. No measured gauge, finished height or yarn consumption is supplied. The photographs illustrate the intended styling; the written rounds and diagrams define the stitch placement.
The bell begins with four increasing rounds, followed by six rounds worked without increases. A final ivory increase round gives the bottom a slight flare. Two green single-crochet rounds finish the open rim. A separate chain forms the hanger, while the red heart is sewn to the outside.
Materials for a crochet heart bell
- Smooth cotton yarn in ivory, red and dark green, with all colors of similar thickness.
- A suitable crochet hook. For DK cotton, a 3 mm hook is a starting option rather than a tested gauge specification.
- A blunt yarn needle, scissors and a removable stitch marker.
- An optional green heart-shaped sew-through button for the applique.
- An optional green bead with a hole wide enough for the doubled red chain.
- A rounded support for drying if the yarn label permits damp shaping.
Choose a yarn that makes firm fabric with the hook you use. A very loose body may collapse when hung. If your first attempt is too soft, adjust the yarn and hook combination before making a matching group. Do not assume that a bead or button will hold the bell in shape.
This is a decorative ornament, not a tested toy. Omit the optional bead and button where small detachable parts are unsuitable, and keep hanging loops away from young children. The crocheted heart can remain plain without changing its stitch count.
US abbreviations and working notes
- MR: magic ring; ch: chain.
- sl st: slip stitch; sc: single crochet.
- hdc: half double crochet; dc: double crochet; tr: treble crochet.
- inc: 2 hdc in the same stitch for the bell body.
- st/sts: stitch/stitches.
The Craft Yarn Council abbreviation guide lists standard US stitch names. Here, hdc closes three loops together, dc closes two loops twice, and tr begins with two yarn overs and closes two loops three times.
Work the bell in joined rounds without turning. Beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Begin each new round in the same stitch as the previous join and join to the first real working stitch. Do not work into a joining sl st or the beginning chain.
Half double crochet
Yarn over, insert the hook into the indicated stitch or ring, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw through all three loops. Work the next round through both loops of the V-shaped stitch top, rather than the extra horizontal bar behind it.
Crochet heart bell: ivory body
Round 1: the crown
With ivory, make an MR. Ch 1 and work 6 hdc in the ring. Join to the first hdc. Count: 6 hdc. Close the center gently and leave a tail for secure weaving later.
Round 2
Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in each stitch around. Join to the first hdc. Count: 12 hdc. Mark the first actual hdc so the beginning chain is easy to exclude from the count.
Round 3
Ch 1. Repeat [hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch] six times. Join. Count: 18 hdc. Each repeat uses two base stitches and produces three.
Round 4
Ch 1. Repeat [hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch] six times. Join. Count: 24 hdc. This completes the rounded crown before the straight side rounds.
Rounds 5–10: the sides
For each of these six rounds, ch 1 and work 1 hdc in every stitch. Join to the first hdc at the end of each round. Count: 24 hdc in each round.
Keep track of six separate rounds: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. The sides should turn downward from the crown rather than continuing to grow as a flat disk. There are no increases in these rounds, and the body remains open at the bottom.
Round 11: a small flare
Ch 1. Repeat [hdc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch] six times. Join to the first hdc and fasten off ivory. Count: 30 hdc.
The twenty-four base stitches are used in six groups of four. Each group produces five hdc, giving thirty stitches around the lower opening. This is a gentle flare rather than a wide skirt.
Two plain green rim rounds
Round 12
Attach green with a sl st in any ivory hdc. Ch 1. Starting in that same stitch, work 1 sc in each of the 30 hdc. Join to the first green sc. Count: 30 sc.
Round 13
Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each green sc around. Join to the first sc and fasten off. Count: 30 sc. Do not add increases, shell groups or a folded cuff.
Keep the green tension close to the ivory tension. A tight sc edge can pull the flare inward; a very loose edge can look wavy. First check thirty stitches in both green rounds before changing the hook or reshaping the piece.
Make the separate red heart
With red, make an MR. Work the following sequence into the ring: ch 2, 3 tr, 3 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, ch 2, sl st in the ring. Fasten off with a sewing tail.
Count: 7 tr, 6 dc, 6 chains and 1 closing sl st. The single tr between the two ch-1 spaces forms the bottom point. The two groups of three tr form the rounded upper lobes. Both ch-2 lengths belong beside the top indentation; they are not counted as dc or tr.
Draw the ring closed gradually while arranging the two lobes. Do not yank the ring tail so hard that the point curls forward. Secure the ring tail through the backs of matching red stitches, changing direction before trimming.
Hanger and optional bead
With red, make a separate chain of 20. Fasten off with sewing tails at both ends. There is no crochet joining stitch in the strand. Fold it into a loop.
If using the optional green bead, pass both chain ends through its hole so the bead rests below the loop. Before attaching the hanger, check that the bead slides over the doubled chain without forcing it. Omit it if the hole is too small; do not thin or cut the crochet chain to make it fit.
Sew both chain ends securely through several crown stitches from inside the bell. Spread the attachment across firm stitches rather than only the adjustable ring center. Secure the tails inside and check that the loop carries the ornament without pulling the crown into a sharp peak.
Shape the bell and attach the heart
Weave the body ends through matching-color stitches and secure the crown ring tail. If the yarn label permits damp shaping, dampen the bell lightly and arrange it over a rounded support that fits without stretching the stitches. Leave the lower rim open and let the fabric dry fully before removing the support.
Position the red heart on the front, clear of the green rim and the round-joining seam. Sew around the outside of the applique with small relaxed stitches through its red edge and the bell wall. Keep the heart flat; do not stuff behind it or sew through both sides of the hollow bell.
The optional green heart button can be sewn to the center of the red applique. Secure it with several passes through its holes and firm crochet stitches. The ornament can also be finished without a button; no extra crochet row is needed.
Check the counts before making a set
| Section | Finished count |
|---|---|
| Ivory Rounds 1–4 | 6, 12, 18, 24 hdc |
| Ivory Rounds 5–10 | 24 hdc in each of six rounds |
| Ivory Round 11 | 30 hdc |
| Green Rounds 12–13 | 30 sc in each round |
| Red heart | 7 tr + 6 dc + 6 ch + 1 sl st |
| Hanger | 20 chains |
The complete chart uses an unrolled view of every bell round so all working stitches remain visible. Connect the end of each chart row back to its start with the indicated join. These are joined rounds, not turned rows. The heart and hanger appear separately on the same sheet.
Troubleshooting the crochet heart bell
The sides keep growing wider
Check that Rounds 5–10 contain twenty-four hdc each. An increase accidentally repeated from Round 4 will continue widening the body. Count the stitch tops and exclude the chain and slip stitch at the seam.
The heart looks like a flower
Find the single bottom-point tr between the two ch-1 spaces. The other six tr belong in two separate lobe groups. Arrange the point downward and the closing slip stitch upward before tightening the magic ring fully.
The bell will not stand for a photo
The finished piece is intended to hang. Whether it stands on its open rim depends on the yarn and tension. Do not claim a self-supporting result from these untested instructions; shape it according to the yarn label and photograph it hanging if it remains soft.
Coordinate the simple Christmas colors
Finish one crochet heart bell before preparing several hearts and hangers. Check the applique size against your body and keep the same yarn family for a coordinated group. Green with ivory and red follows the reference; burgundy and olive offer a softer variation.
For an openwork contrast, the blue lace star ornament uses tall fan points. The Christmas bauble coaster carries a plain cream-and-green palette onto the table.
Crochet heart bell photos and diagrams
The three Pin designs are followed by a complete symbol chart on a physical paper sheet on the same table as the finished bell. Two other guides enlarge the body increases and the red heart with its finishing details. Optional purchased bead and button are not crochet stitches. Read the charts with the original written pattern; no physical testing is claimed.
